Edelweiss Patterns 
Today we’re going to look at one of the most beautiful dresses from NBC’s “Little House on the Prairie” shows. Used during the 1975 season for the episode “At the End of the Rainbow”, this magnificent white Victorian dress fit Karen Grassle (as Caroline Ingalls) impeccably. For those of you who are familiar with the TV series, you’ll know that “Ma” didn’t own any fine dresses like this in her wardrobe. In fact, “At the End of the Rainbow” is one of three or arguably four episodes wherein Charles and Caroline both wore fashionable period attire.
I should mention that in real life the Ingalls women did wear much more fashionable clothing than what was portrayed in the “Little House” episodes. For instance, Caroline usually goes about her housework in a gathered cotton skirt and simple blouse in the TV episodes, while the books written by Laura Ingalls Wilder never once mention her wearing anything besides a full dress for chores. Similarly, Mary Ingalls (played by Melissa Sue Anderson) spent most of her teenage years in relatively short calico dresses. While Mary & Laura did wear above-ankle length cotton dresses in childhood, they never appeared in public wearing mid-calf length skirts at age 14. According to her books, Laura Ingalls remembered noticing that other girls her age had ankle-length skirts by the time they were twelve. And even though Mary came from a pioneer family, her parents managed to give her a luxurious “going away” gown for her move to college which was the latest style.
Caroline’s dress was the epitome of Victorian fashion! Made of rayon satin brocade, this style reflects the early 1880s, though it was supposed to be set in 1877. The fitted, princess seamed bodice ended in a curved “v” at the front waist, and was separate from the skirt. The neckline was square in front and back and was filled in with presumably Venice lace up to the the high Victorian collar. I love the organza frill at the top! In the center of the collar she wears a bar pin.
The sleeves are slightly bell shaped, and the brocade ends at 3/4 length to allow the puffy lace undersleeve to show through.
I have admired this dress for years, and even have a framed picture of it on my wall, so imagine my surprise when I found it for sale at www.antiquedress.com! The lady who sold it to Antique Dress thought that it was worn as a wedding dress on the show, but since I own all ten seasons of “Little House” plus the pilot episode, I knew better! For more pictures of the dress click here, and scroll down several listings to get to this item.
One thing you’ll notice in the additional photographs is that the overskirt or drape can be pulled up polonaise style for an entirely different look! Personally I prefer the slimmer version the way Karen Grassle wore it, as it was much more slenderizing than the “bustled” style. And unless the garment has been altered since she wore it in 1974, we can assume that her measurements at the time were about a size small (34″ bust and 25″ waist).
So that’s the first of many installments of “Little House” costume studies! Till next time,
Katrina
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