Hello Ladies!

In the past year or so I’ve written a number of posts studying the Little House on the Prairie tv costumes worn by Melissa Gilbert, Karen Grassle, and Melissa Sue Anderson.  Some of the dresses were gorgeous, some were just serviceable, and others only made it on the blog because of the episode they appeared in.  Because the majority of the dresses worn on Little House were simpler pioneer styles, it wasn’t very often that you saw full-blown Victorian fashion on the show.  

So without further ado, I’ll start with costume number ten and end with my all-time favorite gown from the series!

Little House Costume # 10: Mrs. Oleson’s Lavender Ruffle Dress

 Episode First Worn: “There’s No Place Like Home”, Season 5  –  Episode Last Worn: “He Loves Me, He Loves Me Not, Part 2”, Season 6

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It was a hard call to decide which dress would become “number ten”, but I believe Mrs. Oleson’s lavender day dress deserves to be on this list!  Mrs. Oleson is reputed to be one of television’s most hated characters, (she received little or no fan mail!) but her opulent dresses undoubtedly outshone the other Walnut Grove ladies’ wardrobes!

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This delightful dress was made of lavender and white checked fabric, which was most likely a batiste or other lightweight cotton.  It had a wide rounded collar in the back which was trimmed all around with a frill of plum organza.  The double ruffle of organza continued down the front of the bodice, which was too tight on her.  (I’m sure this was intentional on the part of the costume designer, but Mrs. Oleson’s bodices were often so tight that it wasn’t flattering!) 

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The full, billowy sleeves were finished off with another ruffle of the plum organza (silk organza, I believe) at the wide cuff.  And with this dress she always wore an ostentatious lavender straw hat just dripping with pastel flowers and a voluminous orchid ostrich feather!

mrs.-oleson-villain
Katherine MacGregor played the ultimate villain!

Little House Costume # 9: Caroline Ingalls’ Peach Sateen Christmas Dress

Episode First Worn: “The Pilot”, Before Season 1 – Last Worn (by an extra, not Karen Grassle): “Annabelle”, Season 6

little-house-on-the-praire-costume

I love this dress!!  It is a very simple style, but the luxurious sheen of the dainty print, coupled with the lovely lace inset makes for a gorgeous dress that you could really envision being worn on the prairie.  Caroline’s dress was articulately constructed with at least eight separate pieces in the bodice front alone!

Little House on the Prairie calico floral pioneer dresses

Caroline wore this for the Christmas Eve scene in the pilot film, and it was so charming that I don’t know why they didn’t have her continue to wear it!  Last year I did an in-depth post about only this costume, so you can read many more details about it here.

Almanzo Wilder with his friend Christy wearing Caroline's dress in "Anabelle" from season six
Caroline’s dress as worn by an extra in Season 6.

Little House Costume # 8: Mrs. Oleson’s Over-the-Top “Watermelon” Gown

Episode First Worn/Last Worn: “Blind Journey”,  Season 5

mrs.oleson-costume-little-house

I’ll admit that this gown has such fantastic details that it could have made it higher on the list, had it not been for the outrageous colors and the fact that it was worn by everyone’s least favorite character!  I call it the “watermelon” gown due to it’s juicy colors of bright pink and lime green!

katherine-macgregor-harriet-oleson

This costume has the most ridiculous amount of detail I have ever seen in a made-for-television outfit!  I really don’t know where to begin.  First, there’s this pitiful hat trimmed with peacock feathers and a dead bird of some description perched atop it.  Then there’s Mrs. Oleson’s bright brocade parasol that has color coordinated pom-poms hanging off it. 

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But the gown itself is just amazing!  The entire outer layer of this gown is a watermelon pink brocade, which from the looks of it is almost certainly a rayon/silk blend.  Under this is yards and yards of ruched lime green chiffon which cascades from the bodice into an voluminous underskirt.  Finally, the bodice and sleeves are trimmed with narrow white French lace edging.  You also see a cameo pin at the neckline and contrasting bias binding on the bodice front edges.  Quite impressive!!

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Little House Costume # 7: Caroline’s Royal Blue “Rich” Dress

Episode First Worn/Last Worn: “The Inheritance” – Season 4

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A stunningly simple and elegant dress which was superbly fitted and masterfully sewn from a gorgeous blue linen (or at least it appears to be linen).  Karen Grassle looked so very queenly in anything she wore, perhaps because she was so tall that she still looked graceful in gathered Victorian skirts.  I wish they had let her wear this more than once, though! 

victorian-basque

This costume had a beautiful square neckline which was commonly seen in the 1880s, with a tight fitting basque (bodice) that ends in a “v”.  The bodice appears to be separate from the skirt (which was usual for that era), and is trimmed with blue velvet ribbon at the neckline.

little-house-on-the-prairie-dress-caroline

The simple reason she had it for just one episode is that the Ingalls family went through a “rich” stage where they thought they had inherited a large fortune from a distant relative.  After buying new wardrobes on credit from Oleson’s Mercantile, the Ingalls learned they had only inherited Confederate Money!  Nevertheless, I loved the opportunity to see Charles and Caroline dressing up a little bit more than we usually see in the Little House series!

Little House Costume # 6: Nellie Oleson’s Purple 1880s Day Dress

Episode First Worn/Last Worn: “The Return of Nellie” – Season 9

nellie-oleson-dress

In the ninth season of Little House on the Prairie, Nellie Oleson (who was by this point Nellie Dalton/Cohen) returns from New York to visit her family in Walnut Grove.  For this episode the wardrobe department designed an entirely new set of outfits for Alison Arngrim (Nellie), which were so much more flattering than her earlier clothes from the show!  There was an ornately bustled walking gown in pale yellow with which she wore a cornucopia-like fascinator hat.  There were two charming Victorian blouses trimmed with ruffles and lace.  There was an extraordinary woolen cape with ruched trim, along with lots of flowing walking skirts and fanciful bonnets.  And there was this gorgeously fitted 1880s gown which is so classic Victorian!

alison-arngrim

I loooove this plum colored walking dress, with its striking color, simplicity of style, and superb fit.  Nothing says “Victorian” quite as much as a fitted bodice with a high lacy collar, long sleeves that end in frilly ruffles, a floor length skirt with a nod to a bustle, and dozens of tiny buttons down the back of the dress! 

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 I think what really “makes” this dress is the cluster of flowers at the bodice, though!  (Oh yes, and did I mention they gave her some ridiculous wigs?)  : ) 

Little House Costume # 5: Laura Ingalls’ Teal & Brown Walking Gown

Episode First Worn: “Sweet Sixteen”, Season 6 – Episode Last Worn: “The Last Farewell”, Season 10

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A charming Victorian bustle gown that was really the first “grown up” dress Melissa Gilbert was allowed to wear on Little House.  Laura supposedly purchased this dress at Oleson’s Mercantile in preparation for her first term of teaching school, and the wardrobe department did a fantastic job of choosing colors that went perfectly with her fall coloring. 

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The reddish brown print with teal blue accents were most becoming on Melissa, and the bustle was just small enough to not overwhelm the rest of her!  There were many lovely details on this outfit, such as the ruffle on the overskirt and piping down the bodice princess seams. 

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I’ll admit that I have always been disappointed in the costumes she wore in her early teenaged years (prior to this one).  For one thing, they were highly unflattering to her petite figure and made her look like a little girl when she was fourteen and fifteen years old!  Moreover, they were completely inaccurate to the real life Laura’s outfits – by the time Laura Ingalls was thirteen years old her skirts went down to her shoes and she wore her hair up (rather than in braids) so she wouldn’t feel out of place with the other girls her age at school. 

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But this costume was fabulously designed for the on-screen Laura, and she wore it until the very last episode of Little House!  For a whole five years this served as her “best dress” which she wore to dances, church picnics, parties, and other special occasions.

Little House Costume # 4: Myra Louise’s Peach Walking Dress

Episode First Worn/Last Worn: “I Do, Again”, Season 7

pink-victorian-gown

“Myra Louise” only appeared in one episode, but her clothing and hairstyles were so gorgeous that I wish they had used her more during the show!  One of my favorite parts of her wardrobe is the elegant choker necklaces she wears, which inspired me to create a similar Victorian choker here

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This dress is so romantically old-fashioned!  The pastel peachy-pink looks lovely contrasted with the white collar, and that huge bow at the neckline is the perfect finishing touch.

  I love the piping down the princess seams, but the best part of this dress is the amazing double-ruffled bustle in the back!  I tried and tried to get better stills of this costume, but you see it for such a short scene that this was the best I could do.

1880s-bustle-gown

Little House Costume # 3: Hester Sue’s Stunning Wedding Gown

Episode First Worn/Last Worn: “Second Chance”, Season 8

Hester Sue was one of my favorite characters from Little House!  Like most of the Little House actresses she rarely got an occasion to really dress up, but there were two episodes written specially for her that actually involved Victorian fashion!  This wedding dress is about as gorgeous as any 1880s gown could have been, and it fit her perfectly!

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I believe this costume is made from a silk moire, with a satin ribbon bow and Schiffli lace panel at the neckline.  The pleated frill of organza at the collar is positively splendid!  And I am certain that Ketty Lester (Hester Sue) was wearing a corset for this scene since it fits so superbly.  Her hat is so very fashionable, and she looks just as elegant as can be.  

little-house-on-the-prairie-wedding

To see nearly every other wedding dress ever worn on the Little House series you can read my post here.  

Little House Costume # 2: Mary Ingalls’ Mint Green Cotillion Ball Gown

Episode First/Last Worn: “Times of Change”, Season 4

1860s-ball-gown

Probably one of the most gorgeous dresses I have ever seen!  Such grandeur was rarely seen in Little House on the Prairie.  This is really the quintessential ball gown, with the ultimate “princess gown” silhouette!  It is the essence of everything I’ve always admired in ball gowns – a firmly fitted bodice, fluffy cap sleeves to widen the shoulders, a magnificent gathered skirt, and an enormous ruffle at the bottom to finish it off!  Mary Ingalls (Melissa Sue Anderson) looked spectacular in it.

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~ A dreamy concoction fit for a princess! ~

In the show, this costume had supposedly belonged to the teenaged Caroline Ingalls, and was passed on to Mary for the grand cotillion she attended in Chicago.  Keep in mind that this dress would have been fashionable in the 1860s (Caroline met Charles in the early 1860s), and the era Mary grew up in was the 1880s (technically this would have been exactly 1879 or 1880 since she was born in ’65 and was around 14 or 15 in this episode). 

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So if you watch this episode you’ll see that Mary Ingalls looks quite outdated compared to the other young ladies’ full bustle gowns.  Nevertheless, I think Mary couldn’t have looked more enchanting if she had been wearing a fashionable 1880s evening gown!

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The fabric itself was a mint green satin, which you can really only see in the bodice.  The skirt is overlaid with mint green chiffon and the sleeves and neckline ruffle were constructed entirely from chiffon. 

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And finally,

 Little House Costume # 1: Caroline Ingall’s White Victorian Bustle Gown

Episode First Worn/Last Worn: “At the End of the Rainbow”, Season 2

karen grassle as caroline ingalls

I’ve adored this costume since I first saw it as a little girl.  A gown so incredibly fashionable could never have been worn for a usual episode, so the Little House writing team concocted the episode “At the End of the Rainbow” wherein Laura dreams the family is suddenly quite wealthy.  Her dreams become more and more fantastical as we see the Ingalls family striding about in dazzlingly white costumes, riding through the town of “Ingalls Grove” in a gleaming horse drawn carriage, and traveling up a hill to their grand fairy-tale mansion.  Like I said, this was a most unusual episode, but one that afforded the cast an opportunity to dress up like never before.

charles & caroline in charming period costume

The year this episode was set in was about 1877, so the costume designer probably “cheated”  by making this more 1880s than 1870s.  Yes, they most certainly wore wide bustles by the end of the 1870s, but the skirts were not this straight nor the bustles so narrow until 1880 when Charles Worth introduced his “princess dress”. 

1880s Victorian bustle dress

And as for the gown itself, it was just glorious!  Karen Grassle’s tall, slender build was perfect for this period in Victorian fashion, and her hair was so elegant that I really wish they had given her this coiffure more often!  When the family is riding in their carriage you can see that they also gave Caroline much more makeup than usual, and lovely, dangly earrings, too. 

Victorian "Little House on the Prairie" costume

The pictures speak for themselves, but I love the fitted, princess-seamed bodice, the elegant bell sleeves, frilled collar, and Venice lace insert!  The draped overskirt is just gorgeous, and the back of the skirt is a veritable explosion of ruffles and bows!  Caroline Ingalls had a matching parasol and wore white crocheted gloves, a white hat with ostentatious feathers, white Victorian walking boots, and carried a glittering gold purse. 

Little House costumes

The other Ingalls family members were equally elegantly attired, and you just have to watch this episode to see their sartorial splendor!

By an amazing set of circumstances I became the owner of this original television costume, and it’s now in my personal collection. You can read more about it here

So until next time, happy sewing!  And I’m curious to know which costume is your favorite! 

Katrina

(All Little House episodes are copyright by NBC. – All text is copyright by Katrina Holte and Edelweiss Patterns, 2012.  May not be reproduced in any form.)

27 Comments

  1. Hello, I’ve been following your site for a while and am very charmed with it! We never know what your going to make next!

    My favorite dress is Little House Costume # 1: Caroline Ingall’s White Victorian Bustle Gown as it is very victorian and yet the dress would not be as bright and shimmery if it wasn’t under a camera.

    My second is Little House Costume # 7: Caroline’s Royal Blue “Rich” Dress the vived blue is amazing and the three black strips of lace silk lace or fabric really reminds me of the little womens 1949 movie of Joe’s brown and black trimmed dress that got scortched!

  2. I love Laura’s brown and teal dress! It is lovely. And I think I have two guesses for which one you got to photograph… I’ll just wait and see if I’m right. =)

  3. […] if you haven’t already guessed from last weeks’s post, not only was I able to photograph an actual Little House on the Prairie television costume, I […]

  4. Hello Katrina,

    I never watched the TV series while growing up; rather, I read the books. 🙂 However, I’ve seen quite a few episodes since getting married, and have been intrigued by some of the costumes. So I enjoyed this posting and thought you made some great choices for the Top Ten! My favorite would have to be Mary’s ballgown, followed closely by Caroline’s pastel print dress (#9). Laura’s brown and teal gown seemed the most authentic to me, based on her descriptions of clothing in the books. I’d never seen the Watermelon Dress before and was quite shocked! What a hideous concoction!!! Who thought that one up?! 😉 On the other hand, the most beautiful dress is hands down #1…Caroline’s white lacy creation. I had thought at one time to make my wedding dress in a similar fashion, although that never occured. Anyway, I’m going over to the newest post to make some “related” remarks!!! 🙂

  5. I remember seeing the “watermelon” dress at Old Tucson! It was very detailed and over the top indeed:)

    1. Oh wow, Lauren – that must have been amazing! Even from seeing the episode I can find so many details, so there would be so many things more to see in real life!

      Thanks for sharing!

      Katrina

  6. Katrina, have you seen the Recycled Movie Costumes website? Caroline’s Christmas dress would make a great entry there! I haven’t seen the pilot in such a long time, so I didn’t really remember Caroline’s costumes too well—you’re right, they should have kept on using that dress in the series!

    1. Hi Elisabeth!

      Yes, I’m well acquainted with Recycled Movie Costumes! They make some wonderful observations. I don’t think I will enter this costume on that site, simply because they don’t link back to the people who found the costumes (and I took a lot of time getting the film stills just right and editing all the photos!), and it would kind of be as if I had done all the work for nothing if someone else takes credit for my finding the costumes (nevermind using my stills).

      It’s a great site though, and I especially love their Regency dress section!

      Thanks for the comment, : )

      Katrina

  7. Hello Miss Katrina,
    I really enjoy reading your blog and keeping up with all your projects – you are such an accomplished seamstress!

    I have a sewing question for you – actually a couple, if you don’t mind 🙂 – about the dress you entitled “Caroline’s Royal Blue “Rich” Dress.” You mentioned that it looks like the bodice was seperate from the skirt and said this was usual. I hope, Lord willing, to re-create a movie costume that seems to have this same construction method and wonder if you could explain how this is done. It looks as though the bodice is sitting practically right at the waist, so are there hooks and eyes holding the bodice in place? Any tips would be appreciated! Also, those three black/dark blue narrow stripes around the bottom of the skirt are simply lovely and the dress I’m considering has these also… what are these made of? Would you simply use strips of contrasting fabric to create this effect or is it ribbon/etc.?
    Thank you so much for your help and your blog! I look forward to any reply you have time to give! May the Lord bless your day and bring you close to Him!
    ~Maggie

    1. Hello Maggie,

      Thank you for the comment! Good questions about Caroline’s dress! I haven’t seen the blue dress up close, but since I own the white gown that was similarly constructed I can probably guess that there were not hooks and eyes holding the bodice and skirt together. The white gown has two totally separate pieces, and the bodice is so firmly underlined with duck/canvas that it doesn’t slip or slide very easily. I believe this was the same method used for all the women’s two-piece dresses in the Little House series, as at one point Laura’s brown and teal walking gown rides up too high in Season 9 and you can see the waistband of the skirt.

      That being said, the real Laura Ingalls always had some sort of closure to keep her outfits in place, which you may have read about in “These Happy Golden Years”. In this book Laura describes how her pink lawn dress was constructed in this manner: “The skirt was gathered very full all round into a narrow waistband, whic buttoned over the bottom of the waist to secure them from slipping apart.”

      So if this was something the Victorian women were concerned about, I think the Little House costumers should have been, too!

      To answer your second question, you could really do whatever you like! The trim at the neckline is velvet ribbon, but I’m not 100% positive that this material was also used around the bottom of the skirt. If you use a regular cotton fabric instead of ribbon, it might be easiest to cut it into bias strips since that will give the smoothest look after you sew it on.

      Hope this answers your questionss, and have a blessed day, too!

      Katrina

  8. Hello again! 🙂

    After looking at it further, I also wonder, how does her white “insert” at the neckline work? Is this sewn into the dress or is it a panel that goes under the true neckline?

    Thank you again for any ideas!
    ~Maggie

    1. Hi Maggie!

      Are you referring to Caroline’s blue dress? Because if so I can almost guarantee you that it is sewn into the bodice, simply from comparing the way her white Victorian gown was constructed. The white gown (which has a Venice lace panel at the neck) simply has the insert laid under the bodice and hand-stitched into the neckline. It has about 1″ extra all the way around the inside of the neckline which is more or less a seam allowance.

      Hope this helps, and happy sewing!

      Katrina

  9. Hello Katrina!

    Thank you, thank you so much for these answers…they are so very helpful, especially the part about the insert. I was really wondering how that would work out! 🙂 Also, thanks for the tips about the trim. I look forward to starting my dress project, Lord willing, very soon!

    Thank you again,
    Blessings,
    ~Maggie

    1. Glad it helped, Maggie! I’d love to see pictures whenever you finish. : )

      Happy sewing,

      Katrina

  10. I have always loved Victorian style clothing. My favorite Victorian item on Little House was the episode where Laura Ingalls sold her horse to Nellie Olson, and Mr Olson and Nellie come to pick it up on Christmas morning and Nellie is wearing a mint green colored Victorian style dress coat that was absolutely stunning. Wish I could find a coat like that. It was absolutely beautiful.

    1. Hi Melinda! Yes, Nellie Oleson’s coat was sooo beautiful! I’ve always thought it was one of her prettiest outfits in the whole series. If I ever do an article about the best children’s costumes from Little House, that would definitely be towards the top of the list! Happy sewing, Katrina

  11. my favorite is DEFINATLEY laura’s dress. Funny, my name is Laura, Too. And I wear my hair in braids. Yes, Melissa gilbert is my insparation 4 that :)!! I LOVE all her dresses!!!!!

  12. My family visited Old Tucson last week and I was happily surprised that they had 8 costumes from Little House on display, including Mrs. Oleson’s “watermelon” dress and Laura’s brown and teal walking dress. I would be happy to send you pictures if you would like to see them!

    1. Hello, Mary,

      Yes, I have spoken on the phone with some staff at the Old Tuscon Museum when I was researching the costumes a few years ago! I’ve seen pictures of four of the dresses, but I’d love to see whatever photos you took! Thank you for thinking of me. 🙂 (You can email the pictures to info@edelweisspatterns.com ).

      Happy sewing,
      Katrina

  13. I am trying to find the dresses & hats worn by Kate Thorvald in “Doctor’s Lady,” especially the brown hat w/ sheer fabric “wrap” around it, the day she went riding her horse.

    1. Hi Missy!

      Yes, I’ve never found any information on that whatsoever. 🙁 My guess is that since she was a one-time actress in the show, they most likely rented something from say, Western Costume or a similar firm to that. The reason why I think so is because her lovely dresses were never reworn on the show. And with other dresses, the Little House costume personnel had no problems swapping blouses and dresses on different actresses all the time. For instance, the black and floral sprigged dress that Grace Snyder/Edwards wears in Season 2 is later seen hanging in the store in Season 5, I believe. And the gorgeous peach gown that Caroline wore in the Pilot was worn a whole six years later by an extra who played Almanzo’s would-be “special friend”. So all that to say, is that I’m *sure* if the dresses had been in Little House production ownership, they would have appeared many, many times on the show in later years.

      So somewhere the gowns are probably hanging in a costume rental wardrobe in Los Angeles. Sort of sad, isn’t it?

      Well, happy sewing!
      Katrina

  14. Hi,
    I am looking for the pattern of the bathrobe Caroline wore on the show, it was dusty blue with little flowers and was a tie to the side. I loved everything she wore but would live that pattern.
    Thank you

    1. Hi Sue!

      Yes, that’s a lovely garment, isn’t it? No, there’s no pattern for it on the market. There might be something you could convert to look like it, but there is no exact replica.

      Happy sewing!
      Katrina

  15. Hi Sue I also love Little House on the Prairie too!
    I’m also the age 10. I always watch it with my grandma. I have my own website called Ella’s rock search.com. It’s kind of hard to find, so good luck if you do try to find it. My dad helped me make it because he does programming fore his job. TTYL (Talk ToYou Later) Sue.

  16. Shoes??? My daughters were asking about their shoes…?

  17. Great article. I wish you had added some of Kate Thorvald’s wardrobe from Doctor’s Lady though!

    1. Lukas, I understand! It was hard to pick just 10, so maybe I’ll have to feature some of her gowns in the future.

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