A Summer Liesl Blouse – Sewing a Shirred Vintage Top

Today I’m sharing a tutorial on how to sew a vintage “Liesl blouse” using our Liesl’s Dancing Dress pattern.

I’ve been amazed to see what I call the “Liesl” look the last couple spring seasons – a gathered bodice that is fitted below the bust with two or three rows of elasticized shirring in the midriff area, finished with either a peplum or an attached skirt. (Here is an example of the shirring I’m referring to.) This feminine style seems to be everywhere in warm weather tops and dresses right now, and I believe it gained popularity through Anthropologie’s “Somerset” collection. Most any new fashion trend has an element that can be found in an old photograph or fashion plate, and this one is no exception.

Since this style is borrowing inspiration from the late 1930s/early 1940s ruched bodice idea, I thought it would be fitting to see if the Liesl Dress pattern would transition as easily into a top as I guessed it would. Thankfully, it was a cinch! The result is a darling vintage top that slips on easily thanks to the elasticized shirring, and visually minimizes the waist with the built in peplum. This version omits the full balloon sleeves for warm weather days, but you could certainly keep the sleeves for a more romantic look.

Above are the materials I chose for this top.

The fabric is a two-tone “shot cotton” that has an iridescent look, due to the warp and weft being two different colors – orange and pink. It’s a bit like the effect of a silk shantung, but in a much more wearable, everyday cotton. (This color is “Camelia” by Kaffe Fassett.)

I’m drinking Strawberry Vanilla Rooibos by Republic of Tea, which is completely heavenly with a bit of milk. I thought it was appropriate to pair strawberry tea with the bright, juicy color of the fabric. This tea cup is the same china I used for hosting the Royal Wedding Afternoon Tea in 2019…

Sewing Level: Intermediate Level of Difficulty: Medium

Supplies for the sleeveless Liesl Blouse are:

1.5 yards of 45″ fabric (Cotton broadcloth, poplin, batiste, voile, Dotted Swiss, eyelet, or other mid-weight cotton is perfect)

Thread to match – One spool

One small safety pin (or bodkin)

1/8″ or 1/4″ elastic – 2 to 3 yards depending on size you choose (your waist measurement times 3, plus another 6 inches or so.)

1/2″ Double Fold Bias binding – 3 packages of 3 yards each (You will use more or less of the third package, depending on the size you choose to sew with.) My preference is the Hobby Lobby brand binding.

Liesl’s Dancing Dress Pattern – Paper or Digital Pattern. (I’m using the adult version, but you could use the girls’ pattern for a child’s blouse just as easily.)

1. Cut out the following pieces from the pattern: Yoke Front, Yoke Back, Bodice Front, and Bodice Back. Using the bodice pattern pieces designed for sheer fabric only (as opposed to the bodice lining pieces), lengthen the bodice front and back by approximately 8 inches from the lower edge. This will make the top mid-hip length, instead of stopping at the natural waist as the dress version does. You can hold up the pattern piece on you while looking in the mirror to determine exactly how long your preference is. Follow the lines of the back and side seams when lengthening.

2. Sew the yoke following the pattern instructions as normal with no changes. (It’s much easier to sew this yoke in a cotton rather than chiffon for the Liesl dress!)

3. Sew the bodice front and bodice back together at the side seams, pressing well and finishing the raw edges. (Here is a complimentary tutorial to make your seams look pristine and perfect using the Five Step Pressing Method.)

4. Gather the upper edges of the bodice front and back.

5. Sew the gathered bodice into the yoke, following the pattern instructions. Press & finish the seam allowances.

6. Try on the blouse and mark where the waistline is, and where the underbust line is according to the pattern instructions. (You see it here on the mannequin, but it’s best to try it on for this step as every body is unique.) Also mark the line in between the waist and underbust lines as the pattern will explain.

7. Now you will shift away from the pattern instructions for a minute – instead of stitching a row of gathering stitches along those three lines, instead center bias binding over the line and stitch very close to the edges of the binding at the top and bottom. Continue till all three lines have the bias binding applied.

8. Measure around your body circumference at the midriff and waist areas, and add a couple inches to the number. Cut three pieces of elastic this length, and insert a piece of elastic through the binding casing to gather.

9. Once the elastic is all in, stitch the center back seam closed, as you can omit the zipper completely in this blouse.

10. Bind the armholes with bias binding, and hem the lower edge with a narrow machine hem. Press the armholes and iron well with as much steam as recommended for the fiber content of your fabric.

11. Finally, create a bow out of bias binding by cutting a 10 inch length of the binding, tying into a bow, and hand stitching at the center front where the yoke meets the bodice. I recommend omitting the bows on the midriff area, as the threads might snap when the elastic stretches.

With the blouse complete, I’m envisioning lots of warm summer days running errands, taking a trip to the berry farm, or having an occasional picnic in this top… The shot cotton fabric is so comfortable, and you don’t know how flattering the Liesl style is till you try it on! It creates the illusion of the perfect “hourglass” shape, with the peplum flaring out into the wide ruffle below. If you make a Liesl blouse for your own wardrobe, do drop me a line with a picture or two! I love seeing what you all are sewing with the patterns this season.